Fleece can be made from different materials. I’ve been wondering if there was any actual difference between cotton fleece and polyester fleece and decided to do some research.
Cotton fleece and polyester fleece differ in warmth, breathability, durability, and comfort. Generally, polyester and poly-blend fleeces will be warmer more durable, and better at wicking moisture but cotton fleece is more breathable while cotton itself is generally considered comfortable.
There are several advantages and disadvantages to cotton and polyester fleece. Read on and I’ll explain the differences and why you might choose one material for your fleece over another.
By the way, as an Amazon Associate, I earn when buying qualified products through links on my site.
If you’re wondering what fleece even is, jump to this section of the article.
Choosing between cotton or polyester fleece may seem like a challenge, so I’ve put together a table to summarize some general facts about the differences between polyester and cotton fleece. Of course, this is just a brief summary and there is plenty more to learn about when making the decision between polyester and cotton fleece.
Fabric TypeWarmthComfortMoisture-WickingPolyesterMaintains heat and provides good insulation.Usually soft, but cheaper polyester can be coarse. Not very breathable.Does not retain moisture; dries quickly.CottonMore porous, loses heat more easilySoft fabric, and light to wear in hot weather. Breathable.Does not wick moisture; takes a while to dry.Now that you know a few key differences regarding cotton fleece and polyester fleece, read on to learn more about the advantages and disadvantages of each as well as more in-depth comparisons.
A lot of factors go into deciding which fleece fabric is warmer. When researching this subject, some common terms you may come across could be:
These terms are a little technical. So, I’m going to break it down and go through each of these terms and figure out just which fleece fabric can help keep you the warmest during the winter season.
In simple terms, air permeability is how much air passes through a fabric. Air permeability is one factor that affects the overall warmth of a fabric because the more air that’s allowed through, the more likely the cold air can get to your body.
The density, thickness, structure, and number of pores of the fabric will determine how much air can pass through. Generally, fabric that’s less dense, thin, and has more/wider pores (gaps between each stitch) will be MORE permeable to air and thus allows more air to penetrate the fabric.
100% cotton is the most permeable to air, but a combination of 80% cotton and 20% polyester may be the most impenetrable to air (Saha et. al., 2019). This study compared three similar fabric types except they had a different ratio of cotton and polyester.
This makes cotton fleece the best choice for summer wear, because you might feel clammy and uncomfortable when wearing polyester. However, that makes polyester fleece or a poly/cotton blend the warmer choice for winter weather.
As a note, fabric thickness and whether it’s knit or woven also makes a difference in air permeability, so even though material type appears to make an impact, a thick cotton fleece will likely be less air permeable than a very thin polyester fleece.
Thermal conductivity pertains to heat transfer across materials by means of conduction. Conduction is a fancy way to describe heat going from one place to the next, usually from something hot to something cold (it never goes from cold to hot).
For example, heat is transferred away from your body (warm) to the ground of a tent (cold) when you don’t have a proper sleeping pad. Want to learn more about sleeping pads and how to find the right one? Click here!
While cotton material has a thermal conductivity of around 0.04 W/(m K), polyester has a thermal conductivity of around 0.05 W/(m K) (you can find more information about the thermal conductivity of various materials from this source).
Generally, you want to find a fabric with lower thermal conductivity, as this means that less heat will be transferred away from your body. So for the case between cotton and polyester, cotton does have a slightly lower thermal conductivity. Yet, when you combine cotton and polyester, you get even lower thermal conductivity (Alay, Gode, Alkan, 2012).
TL;DR: Polyester conducts heat better (less ideal) than cotton in their pure forms. Cotton/Poly blends are the best for thermal conductivity.
Thermal Resistance has the opposite effect of thermal conductivity; when thermal resistance increases, heat loss goes down.
The R-value is one way to measure thermal resistance. In general, higher R values have better insulation, so the same is found with thermal resistance. Additionally, thicker fabrics also have better insulation and the sought-after higher thermal resistance.
Polyester is a good insulator and is known to be one warmer for colder weather. However, polyester is the thinner of the two fabrics, which may be why the poly/cotton combinations are becoming increasingly popular.
While 100% cotton has lower thermal resistance (and thus loses more heat), cotton and polyester combinations are better at keeping the heat in. So, cotton may be better for cool summer nights, but polyester or poly blends may be better suited for cold weather.
Moisture vapor permeability refers to a fabric’s ability to allow water vapor (water in its gas form) to go through the fabric. Oftentimes, vapor permeability is discussed in terms of breathability because, like air permeability, it’s related to how porous a fabric is.
Polyester, in general, does not absorb water, but with particular weaves, polyester has moisture-wicking properties. This allows you to stay dry, and in the winter, this is a life-saving thing.
Cotton, on the other hand, has higher water vapor permeability, meaning it allows more moisture through.
Since Cotton is hydrophilic (loves water), it sucks in the water and holds onto it. Cotton is like the ex-boyfriend that just won’t quit texting! “I love you, water, I think we go great together”
Furthermore, because cotton doesn’t wick water away from your body and takes forever to dry, that means that water is going to be against your body for a long time. In the summer, this may be a desirable feature, as it can even cool you off. But in the winter, you don’t want water vapor or sweat on your body.
Further, wearing cotton in cold and wet winter conditions can be dangerous. Because the cotton absorbs water instead of wicking it away, the fabric loses its ability to insulate your body. This causes you to become even colder, and because cotton takes so long to dry, it continues to get colder and could even lead to hypothermia. For this reason, the old saying is that “cotton kills.”
Now, I’ll be the first to say… I wear cotton in the wintertime. If you’re out in the wilderness I really recommend finding other fabrics because you can’t just go inside and change–but around the house or going for a quick jog you can get away with cotton because you can avoid getting your clothes wet.
So, just be careful with cotton and that will go a long way.
In general, polyester or polyester/cotton blends are the better choice when it comes to winter clothing in terms of thermal conductivity and comfort. 100% Cotton has lower thermal resistance and is also a porous material that lets too much air and moisture in.
Regardless of what you decide to wear while you’re hitting the slopes or hiking in the winter, you should know when it’s too cold to hike for your own skill level. We wrote an article about how cold is too cold for the average person and what you can do to hike in colder weather. Check it out, here.
Many people like cotton because of its soft texture. Cotton fleece is usually smooth on its outer layer and plush on the inner layer. It’s generally more breathable and feels light when you wear it. Plus, very few people have reported skin irritation when wearing cotton, making it a good choice for young children or those with sensitive skin.
However, because cotton doesn’t dry quickly, you may be uncomfortable in wet clothing if you sweat or get wet. Additionally, cotton doesn’t hold heat well, so you may be cold when the temperature drops. So, there’s a tradeoff between the comfort of the fabric and how comfortable it is in cold and wet conditions.
Most of the time, polyester can be very comfortable. It’s a light, synthetic fabric that has a somewhat silky feel to the touch, but polyester fleece can also be soft and fuzzy. Like cotton fleece, it’s smooth on the outside but typically has some more shine to it. Sometimes, polyester fleece can even appear shiny. However, when you put something made from cheap polyester, the fabric may be coarse against your skin.
You can usually find cotton fleece in sweatpants and sweatshirts, but 100% polyester fleece can be used for sweaters, sweatshirts, jackets, mittens, hats, blankets, and other warm outdoor gear because of its insulation abilities.
So, between cotton and polyester fleece, which is more comfortable? Cotton fleece is more comfortable in cool conditions and is safe to use. Polyester fleece will be more comfortable and safe in cold winter conditions.
Because cotton is so porous and allows air to pass through, it’s considered to be a very light, breathable fabric when you wear it for daily living. However, if you plan on sweating or accidentally get caught in some summer rain, the cotton will absorb the water, leaving you uncomfortable and wet.
But, some people love cotton for the water it absorbs and will purposefully douse themselves in water to cool off. When the water eventually evaporates, it can actually have a cooling effect.
Because polyester is hydrophobic, it doesn’t absorb water, making it a not so breathable fabric. However, it’s a great fabric for moisture-wicking and will dry you quickly if you sweat from any rigorous activity. But because of its moisture-wicking properties, polyester is not ideal for wearing in the summer.
Many people have reported feeling uncomfortable in the summer because instead of absorbing the sweat, it will trap your sweat and make you hotter. So, save your polyester clothing for winter when you need extra warmth.
From my own experience this is the case. I have a thick polyester fleece that I love, and if the weather gets too warm (60s), it becomes pretty sweaty and uncomfortable.
My warm and fuzzy polyester fleeceYet, breathability can vary depending on yarn size and whether it’s knitted or woven. Generally, the thinner the fabric and the finer the yarn, the more breathable the fabric. Even though it’s not the most scientific of experiments, you can try holding your fabric up against the light. With a thinner fabric, more light should pass through.
When the polyester is knitted or woven lightly, the fabric will breathe easier; when the stitches are closer together (tighter), then the fabric won’t be as breathable.
So, which fabric is more breathable? While polyester may be a better choice for winter wear, cotton seems to be the most breathable fabric for staying cool in the summer.
I have an entire article on this topic, so if you want to learn all about fleece breathability as well as the difference between heavy and lightweight fleece, click here!
Polyester is a durable fabric that is resistant to most wear and tear, is relatively resistant to insects and other micro-critters, has lasting color, and doesn’t wrinkle easily. Regardless of whether it’s wet or dry, polyester will remain durable and abrasion-resistant.
Cotton, on the other hand, is not as durable of a fabric. Along with being susceptible to stains and wrinkles, cotton loses its fiber strength as the temperature decreases.
Cotton is organic, which means it’s more susceptible to being eaten by micro-critters. Polyester isn’t indescructible, but it isn’t as tasty to tiny critters.
But, it turns out cotton is durable in higher temperatures, making it a good choice for sweating in the summer heat. The fabric also increases in strength when it gets wet which is a unique feature of cotton.
At REI, cotton and cotton blend fleece sweatshirts and outdoor wear can be anywhere from $50 to well over $100. However, REI‘s polyester and poly blend fleeces were consistently $100 or over. But, you may find some discounted pieces for less.
But on Amazon, you can find 100% polyester fleece jackets for $50 and under, so the prices may not be that different depending on where you shop. The cotton/polyester blended fabrics were a little cheaper at Amazon and were between $20 and $30.
As far as prices go, you can find a decently priced fleece, cotton, or cotton/polyester blend for similar prices. But, the 100% polyester fleece garments may be a little more pricy.
Now that we’ve gone through the differences between cotton and polyester, let’s take some time to summarize everything and look at the advantages and disadvantages of each.
Cotton has its advantages and disadvantages, so what about polyester?
Fleece isn’t a type of material like cotton or polyester, so what is it?
Fleece is a fuzzy fabric that’s meant to resemble a sheep’s coat (thus the name, fleece). The term “fleece” used for the synthetic fabric first came into the market in the 1970s from Patagonia (source), and since then has become very popular due to its inexpensive creation and also that it’s a durable, yet lightweight fabric.
Fleece is not a particular material like cotton or polyester, instead, it’s a knitted fabric that has at least one “brushed side,” aka, the fuzzy side. The brushed side creates a raised surface, which gives it that soft, plushy feeling. Many fleece fabrics, like cotton fleece sweat pants and sweatshirts, have just one brushed side–usually the inside–so that the wearer can feel the comfortable, fuzzy fabric. When a fabric is “double-brushed,” you get the fuzzy fabric on both the outside and inside. Fleece can be knitted or woven fabric and has many varieties, such as:
Interestingly enough, fleece is man-made, synthetic fabric and was originally derived from plastic, like plastic bottles. While it’s a big plus that used plastic such as plastic from the plastic bottles do make this fabric a bit easier on the environment, there still is a big concern about microplastic shedding.
Consequently, nowadays you can find more natural materials used for fleeces such as wool, cotton, hemp or rayon.
One of the worst feelings is putting on some of your brand new clothing only to find that it shrunk in the wash. Any fleece will shrink if it’s made from 100% cotton. Even if the shrinkage is minimal, your cotton fleece may not fit right, causing you to be uncomfortable and likely frustrated.
So, your best bet will be to buy fabric that is either a mixture of cotton and another fabric (such as polyester). Or, you could always plan to buy your cotton fleece one size larger, but this seems a little extreme and is a bit of a gamble.
While polyester fleece is less likely to shrink, you should still be careful of washing and drying your fleece at hot temperatures. To make sure you avoid shrinkage altogether, wash your polyester fleece in warm (not hot) water and either set it to medium or low heat or even tumble or hang dry instead of subjecting it to the hottest temperatures of the dryer.
Both cotton and polyester have their advantages and disadvantages, so by combining the two, you get the best of both worlds. The combination of cotton and polyester will create a fleece fabric that’s breathable, durable, and abrasion resistant. Cotton/polyester blends are fairly common combinations, with 60%/40% and 80%/20% cotton/polyester and 100% cotton fleece being the most common according to Saha et al., (2019).
You’re now armed with vast knowledge a out both cotton and fleece fabric. But, which one is the better option? As you’ve read from the sections above, there are some pros and cons to each, and each material performs differently depending on the weather. So, if you’re deciding on which fleece to buy, you may want to consider the purpose of your purchase.
Of course, your decision is ultimately up to you and your lifestyle, so I hope this guide on the differences between cotton and polyester fleece helped!
All of these examples are on Amazon:
All of these examples are on Amazon:
As you can see, whether something is cotton or polyester doesn’t matter at all whether the company is willing to describe it as fleece.
The fabric you choose for the clothes you wear hiking, fishing, or otherwise adventuring is an important decision. The right fabric can protect you from environmental hazards; the wrong fabric can make you miserable or even put you in danger, and fabric that works great in one situation might be entirely wrong for another. When it comes to choosing fabric, the important thing is that the fabric’s properties are right for the performance you need.
Today, we’re going to be looking at two fabric types: fleece and polyester. Both fabrics are commonly used for outdoor clothing, but some key performance differences make them very different and appropriate for different situations. We’ll go over these fabrics and their traits, and help you decide when to choose which type of fabric.
What Is Fleece?
Fleece is a fabric that’s designed to mimic the insulating properties of wool but is lighter and cheaper to produce. It isn’t a specific fiber type and can be made out of different types of fibers. Most fleece produced today is synthetic fleece that’s woven out of man-made polymers.
All fleece is produced by taking very thin threads, looping them, and then weaving those loops together. This creates little pockets of air that trap heat when you wear them. These air pockets let fleece keep you warm while keeping the weight of the fabric light.
Fleece is what is known as a “pile” fabric, meaning that it has depth. The higher the pile, the longer the woven loops and the fluffier the fleece feels. Long pile fleece traps more air than short pile fleece. Long pile fleece is frequently used as outerwear or for blankets. Short pile fleece is often used to line pants, as leggings, or as material for shirts.
Fleece has a long history with outdoors hobbyists, specifically with the company Patagonia. The first synthetic fleece to hit the market was Patagonia’s Synchilla. The response to the gear made with this fabric is a major part of what propelled Patagonia to success, and the popularity of Synchilla pullovers as a mid-layer and outer layer changed the way people thought about layering fabrics. Today, fleece technology has progressed substantially thanks to changes in polyester fibers, but the original Synchilla pullover is still available and a perennial best-seller.
If you are interested in the fleece making process, see this video from How It’s Made:
Types of Fleece: Cotton and Polyester
Fleece itself isn’t a fiber like cotton or polyester; it’s a fabric type. This means that fleece can be made out of different types of fibers and that its performance is influenced by what type of fiber it’s made from. Two common types of fleece are cotton fleece and polyester fleece. Cotton fleece is a natural fiber woven into a fluffy fleece, while polyester fleece uses synthetic fibers. While the two fabrics might be similar, there are several key differences.
Cotton Vs. Polyester Fleece
Fleece Type Insulation Moisture-Wicking Comfort Odor CottonLoses heat easily
Does not wick moisture and takes a while to dry
Soft fabric, light to wear in hot weather, and more breathable
Naturally odor-resistant
PolyesterGood insulation especially as pile depth increases
Dries quickly and wicks away moisture
Usually soft, but not very breathable and uncomfortable in warm weather
May harbor bacteria that lead to odors
What Is Polyester?
Polyester is a synthetic fiber that is one of the most popular fibers for modern clothing. While polyester once had a reputation for being stiff, uncomfortable, and oddly shiny, the truth is that today’s polyester is so radically different from the polyester popularized in the 1970s that it’s hardly the same fiber. Advancements in polyester fabric have come from new developments in polymers, new weaving designs and techniques, and new coating technologies.
The first polyester was made in 1941. As a synthetic fiber, it was first developed in a chemistry lab in the UK and was quickly purchased by DuPont. Early selling points of polyester were that it never wrinkled, didn’t need ironing, washed well, and was cheap. Today, those points are still true– polyester is one of the cheapest fibers on the market since it’s so easy to make and doesn’t rely on crop growing times or animal agriculture.
Polyester is an entirely synthetic fiber. The name comes from polyethylene terephthalate (PET), the polymer it’s made from. This is done by mixing ethylene glycol and terephthalic acid, which creates a lightweight plastic that can be spun into long, thin, strong threads. A thread that’s long, thin, and strong can be plied with natural fibers to create polyester blends that combine the strengths of other fiber types with the advantages of polyester.
Polyester blends are extremely common and very popular in today’s modern clothing industry. They add strength and can often improve the texture of natural fibers like wool, and they’re cheaper to produce than entirely natural fabrics. Much of your wardrobe likely contains polyester blends.
However, that isn’t necessarily true for water-resistant outdoor or high-performance sport clothing. Advanced fabric design means that polyester can be manipulated and modified to suit any performance requirements. One notable example is Dri Fit fabric, which was pioneered by Nike and replicated by several other companies. This fabric is highly moisture-wicking and provides good airflow for breathability.
Other high-performance polyester fabric designs include the following:
Antibacterial coating for reduced odor
Textured waffle-weave fabric for quick drying
PVC coating for toughness (occasionally seen with outerwear; frequently used on gear)
Mesh weave for improved breathability
Waterproofing and DWR
Polyester is naturally hydrophobic, which means that water tends to roll right off of it and not absorb. However, it does sometimes receive a little extra chemical assistance to keep you dry. Some high-end polyester fabric is made of yarn that is spun with two slightly different types of fiber. This creates an inner core of the yarn that absorbs moisture and an outer layer that spreads the moisture to the surface for quick evaporation.
Polyester Vs. Fleece Characteristics
Because polyester is a fiber and fleece is a fabric, and one that can be made from polyester at that, we will be comparing a typical, no pile high performance polyester cloth to polyester fleece.
Warmth/Insulation
Fleece is an excellent fabric for insulation. The trapped pockets of air keep your body heat from escaping and are perfect in cold weather. Some types of fleece, like microfleece, are not designed for insulation– with these types of fleece, garments are typically designed for warm weather wear or insulation as part of a composite garment. For example, you might see fleece-lined leggings or pants that use microfleece to trap air but not compromise on weight. Fleece does not insulate while wet, however. If fleece gets completely soaked through, the water displaces the air.
Polyester can insulate, too, especially if it’s in layers. However, when you layer polyester, it has a hard time breathing and letting air flow through to your skin. This means that polyester layers can lead to overheating, depending on the weave. When it comes to keeping you cool, however, polyester is an excellent fabric choice. Modern high-performance polyester often comes in weaves that are designed to promote airflow and keep you cool.
Water Resistance
Polyester fleece is water-resistant. Cotton fleece is not. This is because polyester is a naturally hydrophobic material, and you’ll often see water bead up and roll off the surface, especially if the fibers have additional waterproofing. Fleece’s water resistance depends on the type of fiber used. However, fleece is not waterproof, and you will need an outer layer that is more impermeable for activities in the rain.
Polyester that doesn’t have the loops of a pile fabric, however, can be waterproof. Polyester fibers only absorb about 0.4% of the water they encounter, and this is why you’ll often see it used for outerwear and shells for jackets or coats. There’s a scientific reason for this: capillary action.
Polyester and other synthetic fibers do not absorb moisture in the fibers themselves. The weave of the fabric itself moves the water. Surface tension keeps water moving in the spaces between the threads of the weave, which pulls water away from your body. This capillary action can be enhanced by added fiber coatings. Additionally, garment coatings can enhance the water-resistance of polyester fabric. If it’s going to be wet, you can’t ask for a better fabric than polyester.
Sustainability
For polyester fleece and other types of polyester fabric, sustainability is a major concern. While some polyester uses recycled plastic for its polymers, not all of it does– and even then, the plastic still contributes to pollution. Polyester fabrics, including polyester fleece, shed microplastics into the water when they’re washed. You can take steps to prevent this somewhat, like not using fabric softener, but abrasion from everyday wear and tear contributes to these plastics being shed.
If sustainability is a concern for you, you can find recycled polymers by looking for “rPET” on the label of your fleece. Most companies that used recycled polyester are proud of the contributions they’re making to environmental protection, so they’ll frequently advertise that they’re using post-consumer materials as a major selling point.
Cotton fleece doesn’t put microplastics into the water, but conventionally-grown cotton is a very water-intensive crop that uses strong pesticides and fertilizers. Choosing organic cotton is more sustainable and environmentally friendly– and the fabric is usually nicer, too.
Cost
Polyester is extremely cheap to manufacture– that’s part of why it’s so popular! For both fleece and regular polyester fabric, the price goes up as the performance of the garments increases. However, even high-performance polyester isn’t that expensive.
Cotton fleece is also fairly cheap. Organic cotton will be a little more expensive, but none of these fabrics will break the bank. The prices are so similar that it rarely factors into the choice between them– instead, look at how the fabrics perform and what you want them to do.
Comfort
Fleece can be very comfortable and soft. The piled threads are comfortable against your skin, and the loops provide space for air to get through. Deeper piled fleece is less comfortable, but microfleece and cotton fleece are brushed and are designed to be worn next to the skin. Fleece’s light weight also helps keep it comfortable.
Polyester can also be very comfortable, but it depends greatly on the weave of the fabric. Because it’s so versatile, there are just as many comfortable options as there are uncomfortable ones. Generally, modern polyester that’s designed to be worn next to the skin is lightweight, breathable, and soft. Modern polyester blends can also be highly comfortable.
Weight
Fleece is super light– even the heavy, deep-pile fleece doesn’t weigh that much! Remember, a lot of fleece is actually air, and that factors into the weight of the material. Deep pile fleece will be heavier than microfleece, but it will still be lightweight and easy to pack.
Polyester fabric is also lightweight. The polymer threads are extremely thin and smooth, without complicated surface topography that adds weight. Certain weaving designs, like waffle weaving or mesh, can also help cut weight.
Odor Resistance
In many cases, polyester of any kind is going to have issues with odor resistance. This is because it’s not antibacterial, unlike cotton and other natural fibers. Polyester fleece in particular can get smelly quickly because of the density of the pile and the increased surface area created by the loops.
However, a lot of high performance polyester is now being manufactured with antibacterial coatings. This helps cut down on bacterial growth and improves odor resistance. And polyester fabrics are easy to clean– fleece included.
Breathability
Polyester fabric, including fleece, can be breathable if it is manufactured to be so. The fibers themselves don’t let in air (unlike natural fibers), but advances in textile production have created weaves that are moisture-wicking and breathable– perfect for athletic wear!
Which To Choose?
Generally speaking, polyester isn’t an ideal fabric for cold-weather applications unless you plan to layer. It can make a great base layer, as can fleece. Fleece jackets are popular in cool and cold weather due to their insulating ability. When you’re choosing between polyester and fleece, the choice is typically going to come down to temperature. Standard polyester fabric and fleece perform differently, so knowing what each one can do can help you make the best choice for your outdoor clothing purchases!
If you’d like to know more about fiber, why not consult our other guides, too? We have guides to the following fabric types:
Max DesMarais
Max DesMarais is the founder of hikingandfishing.com. He has a passion for the outdoors and making outdoor education and adventure more accessible. Max is a published author for various outdoor adventure, travel, and marketing websites. He is an experienced hiker, backpacker, fly fisherman, trail runner, and spends his free time in the outdoors. These adventures allow him to test gear, learn new skills, and experience new places so that he can educate others. Max grew up hiking all around New Hampshire and New England. He became obsessed with the New Hampshire mountains, and the NH 48, where he guided hikes and trail runs in the White Mountains. Since moving out west, Max has continued his frequent adventures in the mountains, always testing gear, learning skills, gaining experience, and building his endurance for outdoor sports. You can read more about his experience here: hikingandfishing/about
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